Corsican rock climbing: an unforgettable stay in the Corsican mountains
Looking for a thrill this summer? Come and discover Corsica's most beautiful cliffs up close! If climbing is your passion, the Isle of Beauty has some magnificent sites in breathtaking surroundings, all year round thanks to its benevolent climate. A natural heritage of rare beauty that the most adventurous can fully appreciate from different vantage points.
Corsican rock climbing: Guides, Courses and Internships
- When should you come climbing in Corsica?
If you're both a hiker and a climber, you'll certainly appreciate the months of May, June and September/October. These are months when the temperature lends itself to effort without the stifling heat of summer, and when tourist numbers are lower. For short hikes and site visits, July and August are ideal, provided you don't forget your water bottle and hat.
- What equipment and materials should I bring?
For the best climbing conditions, you'll need: helmet, ropes, harness, straps, carabiners, figure-eights, abseiling gear, nuts and bolts, quickdraws, all in a sturdy bag!
Some food just in case, a good water bottle, a first-aid kit, a survival blanket, bivouac equipment for the more adventurous, an IGN map, an altimeter, a compass and a good Swiss Army knife are also essential. We'd be tempted to add straps, friends, pitons and a good hammer, just in case!
- What you need to know
If you choose your weather, altitude and orientation carefully, you can climb in Corsica from April to October. However, you'll need a certain amount of autonomy during your escapade in the mountains, where the terrain is generally rugged. Don't hesitate to practise setting belays and friends. Please note that there is no artificial climbing in Corsica.
The geology of Corsica is dominated by granite rocks in the north-west and south, and schist rocks in the east and Cap Corse. Most of these rocks are marked by tavoni, erosion holes. The western side of the mountain also has steep gradients and slopes compared to the eastern side. It's up to you to decide which side you want to start on. Don't hesitate to find out about the different routes available, shared by climbing enthusiasts in Corsica.
Training sessions are organized by professionals, so don't hesitate to call on their services! Numerous climbing schools are also waiting to welcome you for an initiation, whether alone, in pairs or even with your children. Don't forget your equipment, camera and swimsuit. Level, ratings, topo, approach walk will be the new terms for your summer learning.
Corsican climbing: topo on the most beautiful cliffs and gyms
Below is a non-exhaustive list of Corsican climbing sites:
Ile-Rousse in the north of the island of beauty
This is where you can start the day climbing and finish it with a swim! The imposing fissured granite boulders of I Curriali on the heights of Isola Rossa await you with their tafoni and fissures, and cool routes sheltered from the sun with a view of the sea that won't leave you unmoved.
Difficulty at Saint-Florent
In the défilé de la Strutta , you'll find some very difficult routes. For less alert climbers, there are easier spots near the river.
Restonica Valley
Various routes with different degrees of difficulty: between 4b and 7b / between 4b and 7b / between 6c and 8a - Access: From Corte
Vallée de la Restonica Level of difficulty: between 3 and 7a- Access: From Corte
On the program: high mountain climbing and river bathing to refresh and energize you. The Ortale sector will be first, followed by Picellu
Bavella, the paradise of long routes
- Col de Bavella
- Level of difficulty: 3c to 7c
- Access: From Solenzara or Porto-Vecchio
Spend a whole day in this magnificent climbing sanctuary, surrounded by wind-twisted pines and granite needles. Cracks and slabs are ready for you at Murzella, as are La Filetta and Margheritta. The place, your adventure ground, is just magnificent! On summer days, the weather will be very hot, with climbing in full sun until 4pm.
Sites in Ajaccio
- Mont Gozzi- Level of difficulty: between 4b and 8a- Access: from Ajaccio
The granitic rock of Monte Gozzi offers varied, vertical climbing on some very beautiful routes. - La Terre Sacrée Level of difficulty: between 4b and 7c, By joining Monte Rosso, you'll reach a magnificent climbing spot with 20 routes of 10 to 20 meters maximum, with a splendid view over Ajaccio and its gulf.
- Valdu Di Saltu at Croce, near Petreto Bicchisano, is perfectly suited to children and to tafoni (nest erosion) climbing. This magical site has over 200 passages in beautiful undergrowth.
Porto, the boulders of the south
The whole region offers an interesting playground, best visited outside the heat of the day:
- Level of difficulty: between 3 and 7a
- Access: From Porto (towards Piana, south of the beach)
- Note: there are simple routes suitable for children
- Degree of difficulty: between 3 and 7b
- Access: From Porto towards Calvi
- Note: there are easy routes suitable for children
Facing the sea: Roccapina and Capineru
- Level of difficulty: between 4c and 6c
- Access: From Sartène towards Bonifacio
These famous sites are well worth a visit: wild Corsica, with its fragrant maquis, is right before your eyes, and those of the Stone Lion who protects his land. The beauty of A Capineru invites you to climb and contemplate, because it's all there: the blue of the sea, the softness of the round rocks with little holes and a hundred or so passages.
