François Sisti, the last shepherd of transhumance
L'ultimu pastori di a muntanera
In Ghisonaccia, in the Fiumorbu region, François Sisti embodies the spirit of Corsica through his work as a farmer and ewe breeder with a flock of 350 ewes. Like his father and grandfather, he finds happiness among his sheep, particularly in the mountains where his summer sheepfold is located, a convivial place where family and friends like to gather. Although his ewes have enough space on the plains to avoid the need for transhumance, François remains attached to this ancestral tradition of Corsican shepherds. No other shepherd in the region transhums.
"It's complicated to be a shepherd these days," he admits. In the space of two decades, Corsica has seen the disappearance of 20,000 ewes and 60% of its shepherds. In 1985, there were around 1,000 sheep herders on the island; today, there are just 380. The flock renewal rate has reached an alarming level, posing a critical threat to the future of this traditional activity.
François is the epitome of quiet strength, with a wry smile and a passionate speech when it comes to his farm. He produces cheese but mainly sells his sheep's milk directly to the local cooperative. His experience and commitment are palpable in every word and gesture. To meet François Sisti is to plunge into the authenticity of rural Corsica. His cheeses, in his own image, are soft and strong at the same time, a true reflection of his personality and know-how. For an immersion in the beating heart of Corsica, don't miss the opportunity to meet him and taste the products of his farm.
- What values guide you in your daily work?
Respect for my sheep and Corsican traditions. - How is your personal philosophy reflected in your products?
Quality over quantity - Describe a typical day at your cheese dairy.
I start my day by milking my ewes, 7 days a week. Then, depending on the season, I cut the hay, maintain my farm, look after my ewes and the 250 births a year, make the cheese etc... - What aspects of your job do you find most rewarding?
Keeping alive an ancestral tradition that is unfortunately rapidly being lost. - Can you explain the traditional techniques you use to make your cheeses?
I've kept to my ancestors' gestures. When maturing, I turn the cheese over and over, and rub it gently with my hands every day to clean it. - How do you integrate innovations while preserving traditional methods?
It's very difficult to integrate them, because the machines and tools have become far too expensive to have access to them. So we make do with what we have. - How do you feel your work contributes to Corsica's culinary culture?
Corsican cheese is exceptional and stands out from the rest. Lamb: traditionally, every Corsican family eats lamb at Easter and Christmas, it's our culture.
- How have you seen the cheese-making profession evolve over the years?
Sanitation has become a big part of cheese-making today, and that's certainly for the better, because we avoid disasters and everything is sanitized, although it's certain that the taste of yesteryear is not the same! It's all very administrative, you need approval to sell, there are milk quality controls, etc.... - What challenges have you had to overcome, particularly with modern trends and market demands?
First of all, the price of milk, which isn't going up. Then we had to deal with the new diseases that are appearing with the vagaries of the climate, everything is out of whack, calving is staggered, it's complicated, you have to readapt every day... - Where do you see your business in the future?
I'm going to reduce my flock of ewes because it's no longer viable. I've planted vines to supplement my business. - What advice would you give to someone who wants to become a shepherd?
Choose another profession! You're a shepherd because you love animals and working in the open air, but I think you need to have another source of income on the side. - What message would you like to pass on to readers?
If you want to be sure you're eating Corsican cheese, i.e. made with milk from ewes or goats raised in Corsica, go directly to the farms of small producers. - What was the greatest challenge of your career, and how did you overcome it?
Taking over my father's farm at the drop of a hat at the age of 17, and still being there! - Is there a particular moment or achievement of which you are particularly proud?
Carrying on the tradition of transhumance. - Can you share a particular anecdote or memory that symbolizes your experience as a cheese producer?
I have some wonderful anecdotes, but I also have an unforgettable painful memory. While I was in the mountains, a terrible storm broke out, making it impossible to set foot outside. The next day, my sheep returned, but I know them all, and I saw that some were missing. I found them on the ridge, petrified by the lightning: 25 of my sheep were dead.
